Lunenburg Revisited and Beyond

We have been travelling and noticing so much I am nearly overwhelmed with visual riches.  First there were out of province experiences that involved collecting cousin Betty in Quebec and bringing her to Nova Scotia for the first time. We are now taking her places we like- she lives in Mexico City so it all is a bit exotic. For me there are moments of rediscovery  and some brand new experiences and insights.  Let’s start with our adventures in  Lunenburg and the South Shore.

Since we learned on the Local Traveller Blog that Paolo Colbertaldo had opened Lincoln Street Food there has been determination in our household to get to there (Paolo was the chef at the much loved Jane’s on the Commons).  The Betty Tour required an overnight in the World Heritage Site so it was a perfect time to try the restaurant.  

At Lincoln Street Food we felt immediately welcomed and at home in the contemporary space with the open kitchen.  


 Here are things that I ate and drank .

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 And when the power went off (it was the day of the hurricane) Paolo added bills by hand and when it got too dark to see inside he stepped out into the twilight. 


Sunday morning was gloriously bright and reminded me that I’m really not a fan of the garish colour palette on some buildings.  To me it feels 1970s ( when I did find such colours exciting).


However there are lots of paint jobs that give me pleasure like the red  waterfront buildings and many of the “bump” houses.

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It will be interesting to how the various aesthetics  will work themselves out in Lunenburg.  I hope there is enough of the modern Lincoln Street Food and Anderson Gallery (such a beautiful space and shop) to balance the more ironic folky look-  like the artsy shop in Blue Rocks.

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Walking the streets I noticed a couple of places using trawl tubs (made to store trawl lines – coils of baited fish hooks) as planters.   And it was particularly exciting to see someone lining a flower bed with conch shells.  Conch shells were often used to line walks or graves but the practice is rare these days.  The shells came back on schooners that took salt cod to the Caribbean.  Don’t try this today cause the shells will be seized at customs.

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And then just for the pleasure of the eyes there were pointy tops to churches (the wonderfully restored Anglican and this  white steeple in Blue Rocks.

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We worked our way down the shore and took the LaHave  Ferry (get a book of tickets for a lifetime of cheap fun) and lunched at the LaHave Bakery (butter tarts and date squares travelled on with us) .  The ferry has a good local name and the bakery has many details to notice while you wait for your food.

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When we got to Liverpool the town was looking very neat and New Englandy.  It was a relief to see so many white houses, like the 1760s Perkins House, and to see the many dogwoods flowering both white and pink.  A few years ago the town encouraged folks to plant dogwoods and as the trees mature they are stunning.

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Our Betty Tour continued to Annapolis (which was still without power).  More of that later.



About the author

Stephen Archibald

It’s Stephen Archibald doing the noticing. I’m a huge fan of Nova Scotia’s material culture and cultural landscapes. Twitter (@Cove17 ) made me realize I could share what attracted my attention (perfect for my very short attention) and I’m gratified when folks enjoy my content. Pleased to meet you on the internet.